Cosmeceuticals & Skincare Science

Dragon Fruit Stem Cell Active Takes Gold at in-cosmetics Asia 2026

Vytrus Biotech takes in-cosmetics Asia actives gold
fotostrobi / pixabay

A 100% natural active derived from dragon fruit stem cells won the gold award in the active ingredients category at in-cosmetics Asia 2026, held in Bangkok, Thailand. Spanish raw material supplier Vytrus Biotech took the top prize for Ignilyte, an ingredient designed to reawaken the skin's bioelectrical power for deep regeneration and vitality.

The win positions a plant-cell biotechnology entry ahead of two of the industry's largest ingredient houses, and it marks the second consecutive cycle in which naturally derived, biotech-produced actives have dominated the podium in Asia's biggest personal care ingredients showcase.

Who took silver and bronze among actives?

DSM-Firmenich received the silver award for Glycare SK, an ingredient that translates human milk oligosaccharides into skin care through precision bio-fermentation. The result is a bioidentical ingredient designed to help sensitive, stressed skin recover and rebuild resilience.

Givaudan claimed bronze with PrimalHyal NeuroYouth, a complex combining low molecular weight hyaluronic acid with selected amino acids. According to the company, it activates the skin's neuro-rejuvenation, delivers renewed vitality and restores the skin's sense of touch — a claim tied to the emerging neurocosmetics field rather than to published clinical endpoints.

What won in functional ingredients?

Evonik took functional-ingredients gold for TEGO Filmstar BST1, a biodegradable film former that improves SPF performance by promoting a more homogeneous distribution of UV filters on the skin. For formulators under pressure to cut silicones and non-biodegradable polymers, a film former that boosts filter efficiency while biodegrading is the category's most practical win.

Dow received silver for Dowsil EL-9400 Hybrid Elastomer Blend, an elastomer gel that combines a silicone elastomer network with a biodegradable carrier. It retains silicone's silky feel while offering versatile rheology across multiple textures.

Gattefossé earned bronze for Protecticire MB, a fully natural texturising ingredient built on proprietary wax butter technology that forms a soft, imperceptible shield on every hair fibre.

What's new for 2026?

Two award tracks made their debut this year.

  • Fragrance Awards, launched for 2026, recognized creativity in scent through the new Fragrance Zone's Scent Bar. Only Fragrances won for Scent of You — a floral, musky and creamy scent blending powdery orris and soft skin accords with a heart of vanilla cream, violet and Cashmeran, finishing on a warm base of musk, sandalwood and tonka bean.
  • Spotlight On Formulation Awards celebrated finished formulations rather than raw ingredients. BASF took gold with an SPF 50 / PA++++ Moisture Touch Tone-up Sun Lotion — photostable, octocrylene-free and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate-free, an O/W emulsion pairing high protection with a light sensory profile. DSM-Firmenich won silver for SURPR-Ice BALM: Arctic Multisensory Heat Rescue, a rich balm that transforms into a lightweight serum while delivering immediate cooling relief. Bloomage took bronze for Hymagic-SAHA, which combines salicylic acid with hyaluronic acid for pore minimization, skin refinement and reduced irritation.

The ceremony also honored the 9 Faces of the APAC Beauty Industry 2026, co-created with Personal Care Magazine. The nine honourees:

  • Vismay Sharma, L'Oréal
  • Maria Nohemi Galindo, P&G
  • Supriya Punyani, Unilever
  • Weixuan Chan, Kenvue
  • Xin Sun, Bloomage Biotechnology
  • Yuvapong Suthinand, Dr.PONG Skin Research Lab
  • Dr Yong-Ji Chung, Caregen
  • Dr Jun Tao Xia, BASF
  • Hyunjong Wi, SKINIDEA

What does this change for formulators?

The short answer: watch bioelectrics, bioidentical sugars and biodegradable silicones. Each gold or silver winner maps to a live formulation trend — plant stem cell actives, bio-fermented HMO derivatives, and carriers that keep silicone sensory without the persistence profile.

Sarah Gibson, event director of in-cosmetics Asia, said: "The quality and variety of this year's entries have been fantastic. From breakthrough ingredient technologies to exciting new fragrance creations, the 2026 Awards celebrate the science, creativity and collaboration moving our industry forward."

She added: "By bringing the industry together, in-cosmetics Asia gives these great ideas and innovations a platform to help shape the future of beauty."

With the Fragrance and Formulation tracks now established, next year's Bangkok edition should reveal whether finished-product recognition shifts how ingredient suppliers position their pipelines.

Source: Personal Care Magazine

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Olivia Hart

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News editor covering technology and product news in Clinical dermatology, inflammatory skin disease and biologics at Derm Field.

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